‘Quality Over Quantity’ with Veldhuizen Cheese
“I try to keep farming fun and interesting!” This is not a phrase you hear out of an average farmer’s mouth, but it is the beautiful mentality of Stuart Veldhuizen of Veldhuizen Cheese in Dublin, Texas. As I ride in the back of his dusty, open-air Jeep, rounding up cows for their 4pm milking, I listen to an artist describing his masterpiece rather than a farmer explaining his operation. The land is unquestionably his canvas and the quality collection of hand-blended bloodlines, his rainbowed palette. There are no shades of gray to be found in the warm tone of which he describes his journey developing the family farm. With 45 acres and 18 cows to produce a couple simple cheeses, Stuart and his wife, Connie, set out to build a new life for their family from scratch. A lifestyle rich in presence and experiences for their children, where everyone shared a meal at the dinner table 7 days a week. 20 years later with 80 cows and 60 sheep supplying over two dozen different cheeses to fine-dining establishments, markets, and a thriving cheese club, Veldhuizen Farm is a slice of paradise worth the drive. The future is even more vibrant with construction underway for a new tasting room to host more elaborate educational culinary events.
Cows born into the mainstream American dairy industry are bred in the name of consumerism, or ‘quantity over quality.’ Their lifespan rarely exceeds 5 years, while the natural age of a cow is 15-20 years. On average, they produce 6-7 gallons of milk a day with Holsteins taking the cake at 9 gallons. A recent conversation with a bovine nutrition specialist on a long flight to Lisbon enlightened me of statistics measured to support the outdated mentality. The posed question is that of an engine equation rather than a living animal. “Which breed of cow has the greatest efficiency or energy output per energy input?” The answer is the black and white favorite again, Holstein, making up 90% of the 90+ million dairy cows in the U.S.
In great contrast, Veldhuizen explains his philosophy, “I am all about quality contents, not quantity,” and follows up with a bit of his dairy’s history. “Years ago, I was getting 200 gallons of milk a day, yielding 45lbs of cheese. After changing my genetic focus to quality contents of the milk rather than quantity produced, I was getting the same amount of milk but yielding 60lbs of cheese per day!” The farm’s current headcount of active milkers is 59 cows, producing an average of 300 gallons a day. Most of the herd are Jersey, known for high butter-fat content and their big Bambi eyes, as well as Guernsey with a stunning array of colored coats. “The milk flavor is really good, and the color of the milk is just gorgeous!” Veldhuizen excitedly explains regarding his interest in the Guernsey breed. Other genetics sprinkled throughout include Brown Swiss, Holstein, and Normande.
According to international experts in the scholar world, Veldhuizen’s modest approach to crossbreeding, rather than volume-focused monoculture, is cutting edge science that has only been “discovered in the last 10-15 years.” They have found that crossbreeding strengthens genetic resilience and enrichens the pool of positive traits, contrary to the old purist beliefs. That seems obvious after researchers at Pennsylvania State University traced 99% of American Holstein males back to only 2 bulls born in the 1960’s. Results for female genetics came back only slightly more positive. With limited genetic diversity, the future for the industry on this projection is like watching the Titanic. Between climate changes and new diseases, the question is not “if” there will be a catastrophe; it is “when?”
A menagerie of colors and patterned cows paint the textured field of barley, oats, and peas. This is the spring crop contributing to his favorite profile of milk. Much like terroir affects wine or coffee, the flavor of the milk, cheese and butter is a direct reflection of the nutrients consumed by dairy animals. “The milk is just so rich, and sweet, and yellow when they are on barley and oats. Grain makes somewhat of a difference, but if you don’t have good green grass, you just don’t get it.” The farm has received less rain than usual the last few years. When the land cannot support the animals, Veldhuizen supplements by shipping in truckloads of premium pesticide-free hay and grain. “Prices have gotten outrageous!” He scoffs but also makes it evident that he will not compromise his value of quality. There is a colorful political rabbit hole explaining “why” the pricing is non-proportional.
If you follow the food chain down from the cows, you will find that beneficial microbes, both in the soil and the gut, are the real heroes. Microbes are microorganisms that feed on decomposing organic material, transforming it into an accessible form of nutrition for everyone above them on the chain. They also support the immune systems of plants and animals by fighting harmful bacteria and diseases. Toxic pesticides may serve their intended purpose, but they also cause severe collateral damage to the microbiome, both in the earth and the consumers. This vicious cycle spirals with now inaccessible nutrition and compromised immune systems, leading to more predatory pests and diseases.
Pride and accomplishment fill the air as Stuart stops the Jeep to pick pea tendrils to snack on. “Look at this! You would never think that 20 years ago it was like concrete!” When his family first acquired the land, the dirt was cracked and dead. Those unfamiliar with soil makeup may assume the poor state was due to a lack of water and likely resort to chemical supplementation for a miracle. Instead, Stuart’s first move was hauling in 20 tons of compost to begin nursing the land back to health. Healthy soil also means that precious rainwater is retained for the plants rather than running off. Since then, he has planted crops based on what they give and take from the soil for continuous improvement, resulting in the lush landscape it is today. “Farming is HARD work,” Velhuizen says with a contagious smile. He beams as he expresses his gratitude for the culture they have successfully nurtured within their family farm with three generations contributing. “One daughter manages our sheep program, another manages marketing and relations, and I have the best grandchildren!” he points out as they tend to the evening milking. “It is hard to find good help, especially since the pandemic.” I ask him what other side effects the farm has faced since 2020. Always maintaining his underlying warm chord of joy, he responds in line with every other farmer I have talked to on the issue. “Most restaurants either cut out local products like ours that are considered a luxury to stay afloat or shut their doors altogether…we are just now seeing business pick back up in that area.” We both agree that it frequently comes down to education. Many people are so far removed from where their food comes from, how could they possibly know the drastic difference between an artisanal operation like Veldhuizen’s versus major corporations without a little guidance? All science aside, I assure you will know it when you experience the difference in Dublin.
For aspiring farmers out there, I asked Veldhuizen, “If you did it over again, what would you do differently?” His reply was swift, “I would have started smaller with fewer cows until I really got it figured out.” As a farmer myself, I agree whole-heartedly with this notion. When raising or growing living things, the lessons, both easy and hard, are more manageable with a smaller operation. Changing a corporation is like trying to turn a cruise ship. It can be done, but slowly over time. Small farmers are much more agile with continuous growth and implementation of best-practices, making life-changing impact on their communities. They can do that even more effectively with your support and uniting a network of best-practice minds. Go connect with your local farmers. Ask for their products at your favorite restaurants. Plant some seeds. Take care of your microbiome. Whether it is a daytrip or a full-blown vacation, seek out agro-tourism when you travel. Your visit could be the tipping point for that farmer. You have power to influence change. veldhuizencheese.com
